Ken Allinson's latest books – A Guide to London's Contemporary Architecture, and The Architects and Architecture of London – are available from many bookshops, including the RIBA and the Tate Modern. Alternatively they can be purchased from London Open House (who obtain a charitable contribution). Click on the image to be taken to the LOH shop page. The key point of Architects and Architecture of London is to deal with history as something alive and a part of London's current cultural life. The buildings listed are extant works that can still be seen and experienced as a part of contemporary London life.
St Bart's is a terrific architectural experience. Started as a Norman church with subsequent additions, it was caught out by the Reformation and suffered great damage. This was repaired in the Edwardian period, leaving us with a marvellous architectural mix of work from differing historical periods.
The problem with history is that it presents us with problems in being able to see a work, in itself, for what it is. This is not helped by a modernistic attitude oriented to what is new rather than old. And so merit, in itself, has difficulty in fighting through. Here is an attempt to compare and contrast some of the better works from a significant period that emphasised architecture as a civic monument, with churches still as its most prominent content.
Jones is the father of architecture in Britain as we understand it today. As an architect trained in the theatricality of masques he played a key role in the court of Charles I. However, his purely architectural taste was thoroughly neo-Palladian and Jones was responsible for introdcuing the idea of 'regularity' to London's streets. Little of that work remains, but theri is some in Covent Garden and in Lincoln's Inn Fields, as well as his most notable extant work, the Banqueting House in Whitehall (originally to be part of a grand palace) – a superb building designed for his royal patron: for formal occasions on the main floor and private parties in the cellars below; a building from whose window Charles stepped onto a timber scaffolding upon which his head was lopped off.
Wren's St Paul's Cathedral, completed about 1700, remains one of the most significant of London's works of architecture, affecting planning issues and still serving a very important role in state rituals. Intnded to match Late Renaissance and Baroque works in Rome, the Cathedral has always been a problematic edifce – especially after the Great Fire of 1666, when Wren had to conceal his real intentions, but also more recently, when proposals for a new development now known as Parternoster became the scene of contentious royal interventions.
Trained in Wren's office, Hawksmoor has remained, to this day, one of London's most notable and idiosyncratic architects. Two of his churches – Christchurch and St George, Bloomsbury – have been fully restored and fine places to vists and experience this man's architectural gamesmanship. Another, St Mary Woolnoth, stands prominenly at Bank and is also worth visiting.
St Martins has recently had major changes made at an underground level, comlementing Gibb's superb work that faces onto Trafalgar Square. These pages compare two of Gibb's works - St Martins and St Mary-le-Strand – with Wren's St Clement Danes (all quite near to one another, all in good condition and worth visiting).
Lord Burlington was a major patron of architecture and related arts in the early decades of the C18th century, promotoing a pure kind of neo-Palladianism of the kind he had experienced on his 'grand tour' to Italy. He hosted a household of notable creative tyopes, including Colen Campbell and William Kent. His home, Burligton House is now the Royal Academy, but one can still pick the house out, even though it is now overlaid by Victorian building works. It is also relatively easy to visit his Chiswick Villa, loosely modelled on Palladio's Villa Rotonda, but as a peculair addition (joined by a bridge link) to a much older house (now demolished).
One of the architectural joys of London is Sir John Soane's Museum in Lincoln's Inn Fields. Unfortunately, like most such places it now tends to be swamped in tourists and one has to wait for a cold, rainy weekday in the winter in order to be able to appreciate it. But how marvellous it is: home, office, museum, gallery... A veritable temple to the muse of architecture herself.
John Nash was a very prominent architect between about 1810 and 1830. And he was the author of a 'royal mile' between a palace near to the present Buckingham Palace and a royal venture in what is now Regent's Park. The difficulty was joining the one to the other, necessitating speculation and a marriage of design wit with masterful urban design that had to negotiate its way through the heart of existing developments and between the contrasting social areas of Mayfair and Soho. The whole thing remains one of the very few such grand undertakings in London. And the small church of All Souls epitomises the wit with which Nash dealt with his tasks.
Pugin, one of the most significant figure os the neo-Gothic movement, whose work still delights all those who visit the likes of the Westminster Palace, ran a wreck salvage business off the south coast. How this links in with his other talents is a mystery, but it adds to the uniqueness of a man who died relatively young.
Architcts tend to avoid anyhting of tourist interst - places such as the Westminster Palace where one finds the Houses of Parliament and the Lords. Both are like old fashioned gentlemen's clubs into which women are reluctantly invited – strange cultural scenarios inhabiting a unique architectural vision. The House of Lords is an especially good example of Pugin's decorative overlays upon Chales barry's essentially Classical building plan. Architects should somehow drop the anxietoies with tourisnm and politics and history, and experience the place.
Butterfield was one of London's more peculiar C19th characters, living in a Georgian house in the Adelphi, designed by the Adam brothers, but devoted to the Christian content of the neo-Gothic revival. His Al Saintes church in Margaret Street, just behind Oxford Circus, is a masterful exercise. Whether it will be to your tastes is another matter. For me, this is one of the finest architectural works in London.
Street was another strange, obsessive and very talented London architect, author of the Royal Courts of Justice in the Strand. We see the building as richly neo-Gothic. He would have seen it as his career nightmare, stripped down to much less than he had envisioned. In fact, like barry's work at westminster, this is a ruthlessly economic plan form dressed in a more 'painterly' and even picturesque guise. These two qualities together make this a facinating building.
Shaw – like manyother famous architects – was once one of the brightest kids on the block who later became an establishment figure. On his own he virtually invented the so-called 'Queen Anne' style that ushered in a 'free-style' period of architectural explorations and experimentation in the last decades of the C19th. It didn't last, being replaced ny something more orthodox and disciplined, but London has an ignored richness of works from this period.
George represents the strange and very creative 'free-style' work of the later two decades of the C19th. Once celebrated he is now, like so many from that period, forgotten. Today's architects will suffer a simlar fate, whatever they think. But, then, some enthusiasts can rediscover them and dump the history in an attempt to meet with the thing in itself and enjoy the fruitful creativity of such architects.
Waterhouse's monument is the Natural History Museum – one of the more significant architectural works of the museum area of Kensington. He was a particular fan of the use of terra-cotta and the Museum is a good place to see how eonderfully he uses it and dealt with Darwinian themes to the institution.
Big Horace Jones was the City's architect and the named author of many City buildings, including a contribution to the Tower Bridge – actually designed and detailed by an engineer, Sir John-Wolfe Barry. Leadenhall market is possibly his most interesting extant work.
Lutyens was a genius. By the time he designed this wonderful church in Hampstead Garden Suburb (St Jude's) he was well on his way to becoming the architect who was to be a national figure, particularly noted for the design of the Cenotaph in Whitehall. But this neglected church exhibits odd touches of baroque bizzareness and is quite delightful. As a Christian church in an predominantly Jewish community it has a strange life on the edge of obsolesence, but is worth a visit on a quiet summer day when the Suburb's pleasures can be enjoyed. The East End this is not.
These opages deal with regent Street at its lower ends, where its 'grand manner' buildings were designed and completed in a period from about 1910-30. Toursist keep their heads down, merely looking at the shop windows, but there is some marvellous stuff above them, filled with an Empire spirit for which Modernism did not yet exist, despite the visit of the Futurist, Marinetti, to London at the beginning of this period.

While the historian's attentions tend toward the larger-than-life figures who went from survival to success and to significance, London enjoyed the services of a mass of less well-knowen names whose works can be found, for example, in Soho and Mayfair, in bond Street and elsewhere. As 'free-style' these are often very inventive. (Men such as Henry treadwell and Leonard Martin)
Modernism came to London in disguise – as the work of engineers who gave steel frames and elevators to buildings that otherwise looked like the load-bearing structures of old (for which the London Building Regulations were partly responsible). Among the more notable buildings of this period is the Selfriges store, in Oxford street – still one of London's more splendid facades.
Davies represents transition form one world to another. As a bright kid on the block he brought his Parisian trainig to London and, at 22, was the job architect of the Ritz hotel. After WWI his work continued, particularly designed the interiors of trans-Atlantic liners. But when his clients asked him to design on the new, fashionable style that we now know as Art Deco, he suffered suffered a mental breakdown (rroted in his experiences during the Great War). A new world was dawning.
Sir Evan Owen Williams was an engineer-architect whose work represented an odd period in English architecture when, during the 1930s, a genuine search was on for a style at once modern and yet not too radical. And yet the lOwen was the latter and his most notable work – the Daily Express building – still exists (in part) on Fleet Street. What is there now is the office frontage to what was the printing works of the Daily Express newspaper. When the newspapers moved out of Fleet Street the City banks moved in and the works part of the building was redeveloped into trading floors and the like. However the amazing facade remains, as does the famous Art deco entry lobby designed by Robert Atkinson.
English Modernism was largely a foreign import, the product of men such as Lubetkin who saw London as a great opportunity to introduce a foreign novlty to a nation with conservative tastes. He set up a practice wit others from the Architectural Association school, using their contacts to establish a famous practice: Tecton. One of the practices most famous pre-war works was two blocks of flats in Highgate, in north London and these remain a fine example of the best of pre-war Modernism in Britain.
Another notable emigre to britain was Erno Goldfinger, who managed to do what many architects dream about: marry an heiress. They met in Paris and came back to London where Goldfinger set up a practice and designed the famous Willow Road terrace of three houses as a home for the newly married couple and as an exhibition exercise of the architect's talents. The design seeks to marry Parisian Modernism with the merits of the London georgian terrace house that Goldfinger admired – and he succeeded admirably. Today, the house belongs to the National Trust and has been maintained as it used to be when Erno and Ursula lived there.
Gywnne was an idiosyncratic architect born into an affluent middle class family, Early in the 1930s his father was persuaded to let the son design a new family home on land they owned – and Homewood was born. After WWII and the death of both parents, the house became Gywnne's home and it is now a National Trust property exhibiting tastes that now and then lean toward a kind of Modernist kitsch, complete with 1960s modifiations in the Gywnne studio that are straight out of James Bond.
Leslie Martin came to fame by a leading role in the 1951 Festival of Britain and its legacy which still exists: the Royal Festival Hall. But he was a leading figure on the architectural scene in another way – heading up a new school at Cambridge, setting up a consultancy and promoting young architects such as Stirling & Gowan, Patrick Hodgkinson and Colin St John Wilson.
The Barbican – designed by Chamberlin Powell & Bon – is a major City landmark and where the majority of its inhabitants live. The trioe had previously won a competition for the neighbouring Golden Lane estate when teaching at Kingston school of architecture. Then came the Barbican commission. Both of these developments are outstanding examples of housing from that period, remaining desirable places to live.
The Smithsons were, in the 1950s, something new: part of a scene of architects and artists who were concerned with the authenticity of urban grittiness. Their designs were radical and husgely influential, but they actually built little. Of what was constructed the Economist gropup in St James' is by far the most successful and remains an excellent example of civility.

Seifert once represented the darker side of post-war professionalism – a man with a reputation for being able to obtain planning permissions and engender huge financial gains for his clients. He was, in a word, 'commercial'. Now in an era of practcie when most architects admit to being either in business or out of practice, Seifert's reputation has been rehabilitated. We can now enjoy the outputs from his office, mostly from the 1960s and early 1970s. Ironically, they are becoming idiosyncratic landmarls displaying a tectonic interest of which most young architects are now ignorant, intersts belonging to a pre-digital area of sculptural forms brought to viability by largely anonymous engineers.
Cedric Price was an architect who denied any interest in either building or aesthetics and yet took the greatest of care in a sartorial manner that contradicted such declarations. he was famed for his 'idea projects' and only has one notable building in London: the Aviary at London Zoo, a building that adds to a a small collection of similarly notable works that include Tecton's Penquin Pool. You may not like zoos, but it is worth going there in order to see the Aviary, still a thoroughly unusual structure exhibiting references to Buckminster Fuller's work.
Grimshaw's consistently high-quality work in the once-upon-a-time, so-called 'High-Tech' manner always takes the opportunity to display tectonic interests that most architectural practices do not have the curiousity or knowledge to indulge in. We see this at Camden Town, in the Sainsbury supermarket, and particularly in the more recent office building at 25 Gresham Street, in the City. The latter is ordinary and yet, oddly, stands out from the crowd.
We now like to turn away from the Post-Modernist phenomenon, repressing the memory of what now appears to have been a short-lived interlude. Like Art deco, London actually now exhibits very few Po-Mo buildings worth visiting. Here, we make reference to two of its better architects: John Outram and Quinlan Terry. Among the latter's London works is a series of villas in the Regent's Park; and the former designed what is possibly the only Po-Mo work in London worth recalling and visiting: a pumping station of the ise of Dogs. The most notable of such architects was Terry Farrell. However the only interesting work by him in London that exhibits his Po-Mo interests was the Breakfast Television building in Camden Town, whos facade lingers on as a memory trace of a movement that once engaged so many architects. Unfortunately, the mad interior to the building was long ago stripped out and replaced.
The Hopkins' have always been grouped togerher with Foster, Rogers, Grimshaw et al, but their work broke out of the 'High-Tech' stereotype (which, in any case, only makes sense in terms of a contrast to 1970s / 80s Post-Modernism) a long time ago – when they designed Bracken House, in the City, completed in 1992. Other notable work which epitomises their sound social connections include Portcullis House (offices for members of Parliament) and other works that give their practice a far higher and more consistently good quality presence in London than some of their professional rivals.
'Big Jim' Stirling and James Gowan were always an odd couple and, perhaps unfairly, Gowan's staus faded and Stirling's rose in the years after they parted ways. The latter became an internationally famous figure, so there is a certain irony in the fact that there is little in London that exhibits his skills. The most notable works are the Clore Gallery (at the Tate Britain) and No.1 Poultry (in the City), both less than entirely satisfactory works and yet both intriguing.
Lord (Baron) Rogers of Riverside has, as he ages, become the outstanding establishment figure of British architecture. He runs a practice much smaler than Foster but manages to turn out works of a consistently higher standard e.g. the Terminal Five building at Heathrow and the Maggie cancer care centre which won the Stirling Prize in 2009. But the iconic work from this practice is, of course, Lloyds of London, completed in 1986 but still an outstandingly unusual work.
Lord Foster of Thamesbank is one of the world's better know architects, but the problem faced by mature and very large practices is 'emperor's clothes' syndrome and the reality is that the output of the practice varies enormously. In London, the beest works from the practice are the Sackler gallery and assoiated works at the Royal Academy, and the Great Court at the british Museum, both under the leadership of Foster's partner Spencer de Grey. Similarly, the two more publically known projects – City hall and the Gherkin – were under Ken Shuttleworth. nevertheless, it is remarkable that Foster has developed an office culture that has maintained such high standrads among a large body of workers for so long. And while many of the practice's outputs – as the many City office buildings – are not outstanding, they are usually the equal of any other practice's outputs.